“While the beast quenched its thirst at the little stream, he looked around, thinking that perhaps he would make a stop there with the bride and the retinue of relatives when, after the wedding, he would lead Columba to Tibi. The place was suitable for a pause; not far away stood the little church where many years before peace had been celebrated, and here and there, in the vast desolation of the plateau, a few oaks surrounded by small oak trees, like a powerful mother with grown and strong children, cast their shadow on the fresh hay and patches of broom covered in golden grains.”
Grazia Deledda, Colombi e sparvieri (1901), Ilisso, 2011 – pag 88
How to get there
By bus
The ARST 511 Nuoro-Buddusò line, the 711 Olbia-Ozieri line, and the 749 San Teodoro-Bultei line make stops in Bitti.
By car
From Cagliari, Sassari, Olbia, and Oristano, it is possible to reach the Lula junction on the 131 D.C.N. After that, follow the signs and turn left onto Provincial Road 27 and continue until reaching Bitti.
Bitti is a municipality in the province of Nuoro, located in the historical subregion of Barbagia. It is 38 km away from the provincial capital, situated in a valley surrounded by the hills of Sant’Elia, Mount Bannitu, and Buon Cammino. It borders the province of Sassari. The town of Bitti is arranged in an amphitheater shape, developed around a historical nucleus with the church of San Giorgio at its center. The buildings are made of stone, typical of Sardinian architecture. The name ‘Bitti’ derives from the Sardinian ‘sa bitta,’ meaning ‘fawn.’ According to legend, a fawn was killed by a hunter while drinking from a spring, the current fountain of Su Cantaru. The origins of Bitti date back to prehistoric times, but the first urban nucleus was formed during the Roman era. It is mentioned around 1170 with the name ‘Bitthe.’
The municipality of Bitti encompasses a significant portion of the territory of the Regional Natural Park of Tepilora, Sant’Anna, and Rio Posada. Established in 2003, the park covers an area of approximately 8,000 hectares and includes a variety of natural environments, including forests, mountains, ponds, and coastlines.
History
Bitti is a place of rich history and culture with roots dating back to the pre-Nuragic era. The earliest evidence of human settlements in the Bitti area dates back to the Neolithic period (4,500-3,500 B.C.), as evidenced by numerous archaeological sites in the surrounding area. Foremost among these is the Romanzesu complex located in the locality of Poddi Arvu (the white poplar), immersed in a cork oak forest 13 kilometers from the town. The first discoveries date back to 1919 when archaeologist Antonio Taramelli, during water exploration, uncovered the sacred well. This extensive Nuragic village, covering over seven hectares, dates back to the Bronze Age and is located near the source of the Tirso River. It includes the sacred well, around a hundred huts, two megaron temples, a rectangular temple, an elliptical amphitheater with steps, and a large labyrinthine structure. The name Romanzesu derives from the presence of Roman-era evidence dating back to the 2nd-3rd century A.D.
During the Nuragic era (1,800-238 B.C.), the area was inhabited by the Balari, a pre-Roman Sardinian people. Documented evidence of stable settlements in the Bitti region dates back to the Roman period when the area was part of the Roman Empire. In medieval times, Bitti served as the capital of the curatoria of Barbagia di Bitti, one of the four kingdoms into which Sardinia was divided. Over the centuries, Bitti maintained its cultural and linguistic identity, reflected in its traditions, customs, and architecture. Today, Bitti is a significant cultural and tourist center, offering visitors a unique and authentic experience.
In the Middle Ages, Bitti was involved in the struggles between the various lordships that divided Sardinia. It served as the capital of the curatoria of Barbagia di Bitti, belonging to the Giudicato of Gallura, and later came under the dominion of the Giudicato of Arborea. After the fall of the Sardinian judicatures (1410), Bitti was conquered by the Aragonese.
During the Spanish domination, Bitti experienced a period of relative tranquility and prosperity. In 1617, the town was incorporated into the Marquisate of Orani, a fiefdom of the De Silva family. With the abolition of feudalism in 1839, Bitti became an autonomous municipality.
After the unification of Italy in 1861, Bitti was affected by the processes of modernization and development that involved the entire nation. However, the community held firm to its cultural traditions and identity, preserving the distinctive features of traditional architecture and economic activities such as livestock farming and agriculture. This dedication is evident in both the Museum of Pastoral and Peasant Civilization and the Multimedia Museum of the Tenores Singing, which has been inscribed on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2008. In 1881, the municipality of Bitti expanded by assimilating the nearby municipality of Gorofai, where the Church of Madonna del Miracolo now stands.
Additionally, in the vicinity, one can visit the ancient village of Dure, abandoned due to wars and the plague in the 14th century, located about a kilometer from the center of Bitti. To reach it, follow Via del Cimitero to the entrance of the Bitti cemetery. From here, proceed for about a kilometer along the continuation of Via del Cimitero, alongside the left side of the cemetery. There is a legend that describes Dure and its inhabitants. It is said that the Madonna (Our Lady), poor and barefoot, knocked on the doors of the people of Dure, asking for yeast to make bread. However, all the doors were rudely closed, and the Madonna left disheartened. God then punished the village and abandoned the inhabitants to their sad fate. Consequently, Dure was slowly abandoned. The village is home to five churches, still in use. These include the Church of Su Babbu Mannu ‘e Dure, dedicated to the Holy Spirit or the Holy Trinity, the Church of Santa Maria ‘e Dure, the Church of Santu Jurgeddu ‘e Dure, dedicated to Saint George of Suelli, the Church of Sant’Istevene ‘e Dure, dedicated to Saint Stephen, and finally, the Church of Santa Luchia ‘e Dure, dedicated to Saint Lucia, Virgin and Martyr.
Also in the area, you can visit Bittirex, a cultural event providing entertainment with scientific content guaranteed by paleontologists and industry professionals about the rulers of the Mesozoic Era. The park is an educational project designed for schools of all levels. Among the activities offered are guided tours, thematic routes, and workshops, offering both leisure and learning experiences.
The Mamone Institute is one of the four remaining former penal colonies in the national territory, with three located on the island. Since its construction in the late 1800s, the penal colony’s main objective has been to offer inmates work opportunities in livestock farming and farm management.
Where to Eat and Where to Stay
Bitti’s cuisine is simple and authentic, based on typical dishes from the Sardinian tradition. For accommodation, there are various options including hotels, bed and breakfasts, and farm stays. These establishments are scattered throughout the town, both in the historic center and in rural areas. For information on where to eat and sleep in Bitti, you can visit the official website of the Municipality.
